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Tashkent
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Tashkent, the capital of Uzbekistan and Central Asia's
premier metropolis, betrays little of its 2,000-year
history as a crossroads of ancient trade routes. This
modern city of 2.5 million people, the fourth largest in
the CIS after Moscow, St. Peterburg and Kiev, holds much
to arrest the curious traveller, from imposing squares,
monumental architecture and fine museums, to the
mud-brick maze of the old Uzbek town, autumn colors on
dappled poplar lanes and the sweet spray of fountains on
burning summer days.
Rebuilt after the 1966 earthquake, Tashkent comprises
concrete apartment blocks decorated with Uzbek motifs
and illuminated slogans, yawning parade grounds around
solemn monuments, and a remarkably comprehensive public
transport system. There's also the other, older city, a
sprawling Ubzek country town with fruit trees and vines
in every courtyard. |
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It's
hard to visit Uzbekistan without passing through
Tashkent, and there are many facilities - consular,
communications and medical, along with a busy (and very
affordable) cultural life. The architecture and
sculptures are an organic part of the city's landscape
and give Tashkent a cheerful air.
Sights:
Head out from the Hotel Uzbekistan to leafy Amir Timur
Square, where a statue of Tamerlane on horseback. Follow
the direction of Tamerlane's horse, between 19th century
gymnasia, along Sayilgokh Street, reborn as 'Broadway',
where portrait artists, hawkers and cafes compete for
your custom, the former residence of Grand Duke N.K
Romanov (1850-1917), a first cousin of Tsar Nicholas II,
exiled here in 1881 for exploits involving the crown
jewels. The firebrick building of dog and deer statues,
domes and spires, is based on the outline of the
double-headed eagle. |
Ahead sprawls Independence Square (Mustaqillik Maydoni),
the largest city square in the former Sovie Union,
flanked by public buildings and walls of fountains. In
1992 the Lenin mark was shuffled off and replaced by a
globe showing independent Republic of Uzbekistan. May
Day parades of Soviet army have been replaced by the
singers, dancers and fireworks of 1 September,
Independece Day.
Beside the globe stands the former Government House,
first built in 1931 and now housing the Bakhor Concert
Hall and the Alisher Navoi Library. Northeast of the
globe burns the flame at the Tomb of Unknow Soldier,
killed during the World War II. Another essential place
is the Earthquake Memorial, one block north past the
Turkestan Concert Hall. A granite cube displays the time
(5.22 am) of the first tremor while an Uzbek man shields
a woman and child from the earth opening before them.
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Tashkent's citizens are justifiably proud of their
metro, Central Asia's first and bursting with decorative
intent. Construction began in 1972 and five years later
the first train rolled. Extensive rubber padding makes
the system, 30 km and growing, as earthquke-proof as
possible. Metro is the most convenient way to traverse
the city, and a cool escape from hot avenues in summer.
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